A weak or fading handbrake is one of the most misunderstood problems on a Bukhanka. The transfer-case drum brake looks simple, yet many vans fail inspection or roll on slopes because it was adjusted in the wrong order. The key point is this: the shoes must be set at the drum first. The cable or rod comes last. Do it the other way around and the brake will never hold for long.
Why the Transfer-Case Handbrake Loses Power
The handbrake drum sits directly behind the transfer case, which means it lives in a harsh environment. Heat, vibration, and gear oil all work against it. When oil reaches the shoes, friction disappears almost instantly. Many owners blame the design and relocate the handbrake to the axle, but the original system works well once leaks and adjustment are handled correctly.
Another common mistake is tightening the cable to compensate for weak braking. This only masks the real issue. As the shoes wear or get contaminated, lever travel increases and the brake fades again.
The Correct Adjustment Order
This procedure follows the factory logic and matches what experienced owners use in practice. It takes about ten minutes if everything is in decent shape.
| Step | What to Do | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Preparation | Transfer case in neutral, wheels chocked | Allows the drum to turn freely |
| Shoe adjustment | Tighten until drum locks, then back off | Sets correct shoe-to-drum clearance |
| Cable or rod | Take up slack only after shoes are set | Ensures proper lever feel and holding power |
Setting the Shoes at the Drum
With the transfer case in neutral, turn the adjusting screw on the backplate until the drum can no longer be turned by hand. This centers the shoes fully against the drum. From that point, back the adjuster off by four to six clicks. The drum should now spin freely without drag.
This clearance is critical. Too tight and the drum overheats. Too loose and the lever travel becomes excessive.
Adjusting the Lever
Only after the shoes are set should you touch the cable or rod. Shorten it gradually until the handbrake lever firms up and holds solidly in three to five clicks. Do not chase more clicks by tightening the cable further. If the brake still feels weak, go back to the shoe adjuster instead.
Heat check. After a short drive, feel the drum carefully. If it is hot, the shoes are too tight. Back the adjuster off one click and re-test.
When the Brake Keeps Slipping
If adjustment does not hold for more than a few days, oil contamination is the first thing to suspect. A leaking transfer-case output seal can quietly soak the shoes, making the brake feel fine one moment and useless the next.
Look for oil residue around the drum edge or on the backing plate. Any sign of gear oil means the seal must be fixed before further adjustment makes sense.
Fix the Cause Before Replacing Parts
Stop the leak. Renew the output seal and make sure the gearbox and transfer-case breathers are clear. Pressure buildup will push oil past new seals if the breathers are blocked.
Deal with the shoes. Light contamination can sometimes be cleaned and dried thoroughly. Heavily soaked linings should be replaced. Using fuel or solvent on brake linings is a bad idea.
Check the hardware. Loose flanges or worn bearings at the rear output can cause wobble that defeats even perfect adjustment.
Small Details That Make a Big Difference
The small screws that locate the drum are not optional. They center the drum once it is seated with the wheel nuts. Skipping them can cause uneven contact and pulsation. Always seat the drum with the wheel nuts first, then install and tighten the locating screws.
If you need full access, remove the rear prop shaft from the transfer case, mark positions, and pull the drum straight off. Taking a moment to mark parts saves time during reassembly.
Quick Diagnosis Guide
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Next Step |
|---|---|---|
| Good clicks, poor hold | Oily or glazed shoes | Inspect for leaks, clean or replace linings |
| Lever travel keeps increasing | Cable adjusted instead of shoes | Redo adjustment in correct order |
| Works, then fades after rain or water | Moisture or oil inside drum | Dry, clean, and check breather routing |
Final Advice
The transfer-case handbrake on a Bukhanka is simple and effective when treated correctly. Always adjust the shoes first, the cable last. If the brake fades repeatedly, stop adjusting and start inspecting for oil leaks and pressure issues. Once clean, dry, and properly set, the handbrake will hold reliably, even on steep ground. As with many UAZ systems, patience and correct order matter more than force.